Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
North (L) Side of the tower
Show routes:
Select route...
Full Rubber Mission 
Grendel 
Jabberwocky 
Left Unknown 
Once Upon a Time 
Rumplestiltskin 
Straight On Til Morning 
Technowitch 
Unknown 

Unknown 

5.12a

   

FA: Lance Hadfield 2007
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12a [details]
Length: 85 feet
Views: 106 page views

Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Oct 29, 2007


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Route and Area Submission Guidelines MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start just left of Jabberwocky on the same platform. Make a few easy moves to set up for the first crux. Manage through this and head up on easy but pumpy moves. At times it is unavoidable (at the grade) to avoid using a few holds on Rumplestiltskin, without moving off the intended bolt line. Continue up managing the pump to another crux. Pull this and head up to a no hands rest, rest up and merge into Rumplestiltskin past two more bolts to the anchors.

Contains a few hard moves for a tower route, but there are plenty of jugs to rest on.

A new route so the rock is still a little chossy, should clean up with time.


Location 

Between Rumplestiltskin and Jabberwocky. Starts just left of Jabberwocky on the small platform


Protection 

11? Bolts to Anchors, Last 2 bolts are shared with Rumplestiltskin



Add Comment Comments on Unknown
Show which comments
By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Oct 29, 2007

If this route was the only route in this area of the tower it would be a 3 or 4 star line, but it felt more than a little squeezed to me.

Having it's own independant anchors would also make this a better route.

This was originally graded 11+, but now says 12a at the base.

By Eric Rhicard
Oct 30, 2007

Looked like it was a little squeezed to me but I have not been on it. I will reserve judgment until after I climb it. I hope it is not one of those climbs where you have to force yourself not to move 3 feet right to the obvious line of holds. I don't mind sharing a hold or two if the lines are naturally separate as most routes at the tower are. I don't like totally contrived routes where the bolt line is a few feet off the line of easier holds so you have to stay on the bolt line to maintain the grade. It would be sad to see that start happening at the tower.

By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Nov 7, 2007

Rumor has it that this climb will eventually get it's own anchors, making it a better and more independant line.

Fortunatly 90% of this line uses its own holds while climbing the natural line. It is the other 10%, the closeness of the bolts between this and Rumplestiltskin, and the currently shared anchors that make this squeezed imo.

The name is something like White Queen or White Blizzard or something, but I can't remember exactly.