Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Mike on Grendel.
Description
Easy start to an unexpected hard move where the holds aren't as good as they look. To a great rest. At this point follow the right line of bolts up the steep face on mostly good holds. Watch out as there are a few heavily chalked sucker holds that lead to dead ends. Rest at the ledge up top, then finish to the anchors. Can also be done using the start for Once Upon A Time and traversing left, this makes it a bit harder, probably hard 11b, easy 11c.
Location
Between Tinkerbell's Nightmare and Once Upon A Time
4 star route if it were any where else in NM but the tower. It is definitly easier to skip the second to last bolt then to lean way left to clip it. Just make two extra moves on jugs and your standing on the ledge. Even if you fell it would be better than taking a clipping fall here which is quite possible if your pumped.
DisturbingThePeace, thanks for the comment. I agree with your beta, I moved up to the nice holds as you suggested and clipped down which was not that bad.
I agree on the moving past the bolt to the ledge. I was pumped and in an attempt to put the draw on I bashed my hand on the rock and dropped the draw. I had a new draw on and clipped by the time everyone below was done watching my draw bounce.... New racking 'biners!!!!!
North (L) Side of the tower
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