Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Drew Cummings, running up Goliath reviewing beta. ...
Description
An amazing line. Start up Golden Stairs and continue up arete. Pass through some technical moves to the mid anchor then fight the pump through the overhang and the finishing slab. To the mid anchors is David 12c.
Location
Shares start with Golden stairs, between Medusa and Ripped Van Winkle
Protection
17 bolts + Anchors. For rope drag unclip bolts on starting slab, and use long draws on mid anchor and the next 3 bolts. 70m rope
By Monomaniac From: Morrison, CO Dec 10, 2006 rating: 5.13a
This is easily the best sport climb in New Mexico. This is the sort of route that makes you want to get better, just so that you can climb this route. If you dislike rope drag, its useful to bring some long slings. One for the midway anchor and two for the first bolts after the midway anchor. These bolts are somewhat off the natural climbing line, but with long slings, you can clip them with having to do any extra moves.
It might be the most aesthetic line in the southwest. It is also a great climb with a little of everything but jams.
By Monomaniac From: Morrison, CO Jul 10, 2007 rating: 5.13a
I noticed that DTP's description (and other guidbooks) indicate its 12c to the first anchor. I always felt like that was a pretty light-duty 12c, but I did it many, many times, so I had it ruthlessly wired. Anyway, I bring it up because I'm really bored and hoping to stir up some controversy. I think its more like 12b.
Hmm, since I feel like killing time as well. I went with 12c for the first pitch because I felt that for the onsight it was harder than Shipwrecked. While the moves aren't that difficult, the sequence and holds were tough for me to figure out, where shipwrecked is more straight forward pulling. Maybe I was just climbing better / better conditions when I onsighted Shipwrecked, then the weekend I worked on Goliath.
I also heard that something broke off the arete, leaving a better foothold for the crux, in recent years. But I was never on it before this occurred.
I think the 1/2 pitch to Mad Hatter is easier than the 12c listed in the guide (12b) and the 1/2 pitch for Zee Wicked is harder than the 11c listed in the guide (12a).
South and Southwest (R) Face
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