Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Steph working Technowitch.
Description
A super enduro-fest with a high crux. There's two ways to go about it- the short person version and the long person version. Taller people head right to the hold on Straight On Til Morning and shorter people generally go straight up.
Location
This is the first route on the north side of the tower, starting from the left. Shares a start with other routes on the wall.
This is not really a "super enduro" pitch. Rumplestiltskin 12a (70-80 feet long) which is a three bolt lines right doesn't have as powerful a crux but it is an endurance problem. Techno (50 feet long) only has 20-25 feet of pumpy climbing. The start can be done by starting on the second line of bolts but most people start this route on the first line of bolts on the left side of the wall. It is still a good route and worth doing.
I agree - the dynamic crux near the top is one of the best sequences on the tower, and the last bit to the anchors is nearly as cool. However, the first 2/3 of the climb is maybe 5.11, with a huge ledge in the middle to have a snooze on. A fun intro to the tower, with good clean falls. 3 stars.