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Renaissance Wall

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(03) Unknown 

Renaissance Wall

Submitted By: LeeAB on Dec 9, 2008
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Anthony Stout, George Perkins

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Description 

Very sunny mostly south facing cliff. Pretty secluded due to the lack of routes. Rock quality is somewhat questionable in most areas.

This wall is home to only 3 routes, from left to right

(01) Project
(02) Child of Light - Currently the hardest route at Datil.
(03) Unknown (5.13a)

Child of Light was originally graded 5.14a by Timmy and has since been down graded to 5.13+ but I've heard it is still quite hard and it sees very few ascents. The project is rumored to be harder but I've heard that it has a bad habit of loosing holds, so potential suitors tend to loose interest.


Getting There 

Drive or walk up the canyon from the tower a little ways untill you see the obvvious steep wall on the left side of the road with a couple of nice looking balck streaks


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Renaissance Wall:
(03) Unknown   5.13a     Sport, 50 feet   
Browse More Classics in Renaissance Wall

Comments on Renaissance Wall Add Comment
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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Mar 9, 2009

I tried that bastard twice a year for 3 years (Child Of Light), and made zero progress. I could do every move, but I could never link more than 3 moves in the business. I guess its just not my thing. Helps to keep me humble (ya right!).

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Mar 9, 2009

Based on your attemps, what do you think of CoL being down graded from .14a to .13c? It does not seem to me like a lot of people have done it.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Mar 9, 2009

Dale Goddard downrated it to 13d, and then Garth Miller flashed it, and that's when people started saying 13c. I think its probably more like 13d. Garth Miller has onsighted 14a, so the simple fact that he flashed it doesn't mean it can't be 13d. I know for a fact that Boone Speed spent several days on it and didn't send (see "Three Weeks & A Day").

I have a lot of difficulty trying to grade boulder problem routes. I think the YDS doesn't work very well on short cruxy climbs. As a boulder problem I would estimate V10, which I guess if I had to, I would say equates to ~13d in YDS terms. Anyway, if I were writing a guidebook, I'd call it 13d.

Its easy to fall into the trap of assuming if you can do route A, but you can't do route B, then route B must be harder. It might just be that you're relatively good at the Route A type of climbing, and/or bad at the Route B climbing style. That's certainly the case with me & CoL.

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Mar 9, 2009

Yes, I know you like to be able to suffer for awhile and loose a good amount of skin on every attempt.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Mar 9, 2009

Skin grows back.