Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Mike on an unknown 5.10 at Pogues Cave.
Description
Start just right of the tiered roof that is Never Never land. Boulder up the first bolt on harder than it looks rock. Clip the first bolt and pull the crux on underclings or small pockets. Don't worry it get's easier from here. Continue up pulling a small overhang to a nice ledge. Continue up passing 4 more bolts on large holds to the anchor.
I had put off doing this route as it is one of three climbs that don't get any stars in the Enchanted Tower Guide. Guide warns about large loose blocks by the second bolt. While there are some large "features" here I didn't find them loose or unattached from the main rock. This may have cleaned up substantially over the past few years.
Slightly run-out between the 2nd and third bolt. Although it is easy here there is a nice ledge to hit and maybe the ground. Picture shows the distance between them right after i've clipped the third bolt.
Location
To the right of the giant overhung arete that is Never Never Land. Just left of Labour of Love.
This climb is pretty fun, and worth doing (at least once). However, it is a little scary being about 25ft off the ground and wondering if you could deck if you somehow botched the clip. Not the greatest choice for bolt placement in my opinion.