By Dave Wachter
Oct 27, 2009
| Lower part is exfoliating in big chunks. If you're going to climb this route, do NOT pull on any of the lighter colored rock to the left of the first bolt. Best to stick clip, as the footholds are suspect until you get beyond the first bolt. Belayer should stack the rope right up against the wall, so it doesn't get a huge rock crashing down on it, like ours did - and prepare to dodge. Some good pocket pulling through the mid section (for around 20 feet), then you have to deal with a very poorly arranged anchor system. There's a wired nut threaded over a bolt with a single, non-locking carabiner, and if you traverse left around 8 feet to the top of the adjacent climb (not listed here), there's an old gummed-up locking biner on some rusty chains.
Despite the good climbing in the middle of this route, I'd avoid it, and opt for the much better routes on the Sleeping Beauty wall, which climb like the mid-section of this route. |
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