Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
Though originally rated .11c, this route feels more difficult than any other 5.11c route at Enchanted Tower. Probably initially went at the above grade but due to the soft friable rock at the beginning of the route, all the pockets seem to have been eroded to feel like two finger slopers. After pulling the moves on the crux at the bottom, the grade eases of considerably once you hit the varnish covered stone higher on the route. If your flamed nearing the top, you can hit the giant hole to the left and gain an excellent knee bar and almost a no hands rest! Fun move to make even if you are not flamed.
May wish to stick clip the second bolt.
Location
This route is one route to the right of Freddy Frog Prince Jr, on the west side of the Frog Prince formation. Around the corner and left of Gollum.
Hey Mono, For what it's worth The Raven could be 5.11d. Also Guy was not in favor of the "big" down rating of routes at ET. I just felt that some were a little soft and down rated them. Most routes at the tower are not technically hard but take endurance. I would rather climb at an area where routes are not known as soft any way. Of course I could be wrong about the grade of the Raven. People can let us know with their input here. I don't think that a letter here or there really matters except to those trying to get up their first one. It is not like someone is going to die getting on one of these climbs. The Raven probably gets climbed a lot more now too. Thanks for your regular input here. Eric Rhicard