Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
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Description
This was the second route up the main overhang of the Frog Prince Buttress, but has more or less been lost to history as a variation, as Through the Looking Glass and White Queen were added. (It's incorrectly listed as a variation to White Queen in Dennis Jackson's guidebook.)
Begin about 10 feet right of Babies (aka Frog Prince) up on the ledge. Boulder past the first two bolts on flatter pockets, then big moves to more incut lips, trending right along the arc of the overhang. Where Through the Looking Glass goes straight up, you move right again to the lip crux of White Queen.
The Socorro Boys (Dylan and Jake) said we were on crack for climbing the "Mud Wall" -- we probably were, but it turned into a good route once it cleaned up. I've heard rumors of pockets at the lip crux being enhanced since the FA -- not sure, don't care, whatever.
Location
Center of the south-facing, overhanging central wall on the Frog Prince Buttress.
Not sure if I heard it was Alf, or not. Lance H. had told me this, or maybe Jean D. -- that a two-finger helper pocket at the lip had been, well, "helped." We tuff-cleaned the route in the first place -- business end of a toothbrush or maybe even a screwdriver to get ash out of the pockets, ala Cochiti Mesa. I don't remember. Cleaning, not chipping, but still -- on the soft rock...
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