Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
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Description
This ultra-bouldery route is the hardest on the main ET cliff band, and 2nd hardest in the area, behind the classic Child of Light. The route begins in the dihedral on the right end of the Frog Prince wall at an orange bolt hanger. Easy (11+?) pockets head up to a point where the wall really steepens to near-horizontal. At this point, the crux begins with a powerful lock-off, to an undercling, to set up for the crux dyno to a 2 finger pocket over the lip. Apparently there are two potential sequences here, that involve dyno-ing with either the left or right hand (I went left). Above the lip, easy moves lead to the chains.
Variously sources over the years have described this route as up to 13c/d. There are also rumors that this route has been chipped since its first ascent. Perhaps the difficulty has changed over time, but as of the fall of 2003, this route was no harder than 13b. I've heard it described as V8, which might be appropriate from ground to chains, but the crux itself is likely no harder than V6. I would describe it as 12a to V6. In any case, this is 13b by NM standards, and all that that implies.
Location
Far right end of 'steep' part of Frog Prince wall. Begins in the dihedral.
The lock-off just before the crux of this route gave me elbow tendonitis in my left arm. Since this is basically a one-move wonder, when working the route you're basically obliged to repeat the 'one-move' over and over. It took me more than 6 months to recover from it.
Alternate less powerful and maybe less tendonitis causing beta for the crux. May only work for shorter climbers.
From the clipping jug below the crux, go left hand for a bad 4 finger pocket. Get a deep drop knee with the right foot, almost toughing your right hand, allowing the right hand to get the undercling. Hit the left pocket over the lip with the left hand.
Also the right 2 finger pocket above the lip has been rumored to have been improved throughout the years. So if looking for a "natural" holds send use the left pocket.
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