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Super Slab
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(02) Clast Action 
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(05) Oreo 

(05) Oreo 

5.10b/c

   

FA: Unknown (Gary Clark?)
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10b [details]
Length: 85 feet
Views: 74 page views

Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Mar 31, 2007


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About two-thirds of the way up "Oreo" on the Super...


Description 

Clark's guide says of "Oreo", "Hard moves at bottom and top, softer sweet stuff in between" and that's quite accurate. Thin moves to the first bolt if you go straight at it or start right-ish and move over to the bolt. Then 5.8-5.9ish monster jugs through the middle to a thin roof/bulge to finish.
The Foley "Taos Rock" book says to stem the start using the right wall and then to grab the chains for the finish--neither of which is necessary! For the chains-clip, just go a bit further and grab the right edge of the Super Slab wall.


Location 

"Oreo" is the right-most route on the Super Slab. There is a belay bolt on the wall to the right at ground-level. It seems a bit far from the Super Slab wall but makes for a good dog (and kids) tether point.


Protection 

8 bolts to chains with steel carabiners.



Add Photo Photos of (05) Oreo
Andy leading Oreo. At the sweet stuff in the middle.<br />

Andy leading Oreo. At the sweet stuff in the middl...

Jen Hoffman enjoying a beautiful fall day by endulging in a lead of "Oreo".

Jen Hoffman enjoying a beautiful fall day by endul...

Hard-man Glenn Schuler warming up on Oreo 5.10c/d.

Hard-man Glenn Schuler warming up on Oreo 5.10c/d.