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Against All Cobbs 

5.12c

   

FA: Jean Delataillade
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12c [details]
Length: 50 feet
Views: 251 page views

Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Apr 28, 2006


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Description 

This one climbs a little different than most of the climbs on Rad Wall. Start at the right side of the in ground flake, climb through the first 2 bolts enduring a mini crux passing the second bolt. From here beware those aren't jugs like they look like from the ground. Make a long runout to get established below the third bolt, from here there is a good hold for clipping. It is possible to deck from here before getting established on the good hold.

Head up and slightly right passing the crimpy hard crux, once past that rest when possible and climb through an easier crux towards the top. Shares anchors with Crack Attack.


Location 

Start between Stroke Me and Crack Attack. Starts on the right side of a large flake sticking out of the ground.


Protection 

7 bolts to chains shared with Crack Attack



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By Eric Whitbeck
Mar 29, 2008

Jean does not care if a bolt is added to the bottom of the route. I asked him myself while standing at the base of the wall. I am not about to go add a bolt, nor am I recommending it, but thought I would throw it out there for conversation. For the record, local Doug Couleur was opposed to the idea, but that could be because he is stronger than everyone else.

By Jean
Jun 18, 2008

That's correct. When I put this route up, the clips made sense. If an extra bolt makes this climb safer for most people, then I have no problem with someone adding one. Eric, I think you're talking about Doug Couleur.

By Doug Couleur
Jul 3, 2008

It's not strength, it's fear; no matter how many times I've done this route, I don't want to come off at the beginning. If Jean says go, fine with me, although it shouldn't be a ground fall if the belayer is paying attention, and doesn't weigh a hundred pounds less than the climber.