Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
This one climbs a little different than most of the climbs on Rad Wall. Start at the right side of the in ground flake, climb through the first 2 bolts enduring a mini crux passing the second bolt. From here beware those aren't jugs like they look like from the ground. Make a long runout to get established below the third bolt, from here there is a good hold for clipping. It is possible to deck from here before getting established on the good hold.
Head up and slightly right passing the crimpy hard crux, once past that rest when possible and climb through an easier crux towards the top. Shares anchors with Crack Attack.
Location
Start between Stroke Me and Crack Attack. Starts on the right side of a large flake sticking out of the ground.
Jean does not care if a bolt is added to the bottom of the route. I asked him myself while standing at the base of the wall. I am not about to go add a bolt, nor am I recommending it, but thought I would throw it out there for conversation. For the record, local Doug Couleur was opposed to the idea, but that could be because he is stronger than everyone else.
That's correct. When I put this route up, the clips made sense. If an extra bolt makes this climb safer for most people, then I have no problem with someone adding one. Eric, I think you're talking about Doug Couleur.
It's not strength, it's fear; no matter how many times I've done this route, I don't want to come off at the beginning. If Jean says go, fine with me, although it shouldn't be a ground fall if the belayer is paying attention, and doesn't weigh a hundred pounds less than the climber.