Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
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Patric Climbing at El Rito (route unknown).
Description
There are two sections to this area, one area is sport, while another is traditional. The climbing here is really fun, steep, and full of boulders and pockets.
The "trad" area has less steep, moderate routes and is a great area for the beginning traditional climber to learn his or her skills.
The sport area contains well protected, cobblestone sport climbing with routes up to 5.13. If you have ever been to maple canyon in Utah, this place is very similar, but not quite as steep, and the area is not nearly as large.
Because an extensive online guidebook is already available, it makes little sense to rehash the information here. It seems unnecessary to post any maps, etc, just click on the web link below for detailed information about the area.
Beautiful line with the Crux getting from the first to the second bolt. Belayer should be attentive here, as there is a large block at the base of the climb that would suck to hit. There seems to be a mild lack of concencous in rating this route, as the online guide calls it 5.12a, and the "Taos Rock" calls it 5.11d/.12a. It seems to me to be on the lower end, .11d. ...[more]
By carlos From: Taos, NM Mar 5, 2008 CONDITION REPORT
I know it's kind of late for the response, however, I was out there last week Feb 25 or 26, and it was climbable. Cold in the shade, and perfect in the sun. The road was pretty bad, I wouldn't do it in a low clearance vehicle. Also the hike in was through about 1 foot of snow in many places, and alot of mud where there wasn't snow. It was dry under almost every cliff/boulder and all the routes were dry. Hope that helps, have fun, maybe I'll see you out there.
I've climbed almost every route at El Rito and I;ve never pulled off a cobble, or seen once come off. If I were you, I'd be more concerned about the sandstone matrix. But it all seems really solid to me.
By Anthony Stout Administrator From: Albuquerque, NM Jun 26, 2007
Great! Uhhhh, makes me glad that I paid for the CD just a few months ago. Oh well, guess you gotta chalk it up to a donation for all the great work they put into it.
So El Rito next week..issues with climbing there re: cold and access? We were there in April last year and it was perfect. Temps look like they'll be high 40's...too cold? Also, I can't remember how bad the road was out there. Will the snow be too much of an issue? TIA.
Hard to say, this time of year. I haven't been out this winter. I've climbed there in November before, but it was pretty cold. Most of the good cliffs face west, but the Super Slab & the Schoolhouse Slab face South, so they would be ok if its sunny.
The real questin will be the road, as you suggested. That road can get really muddy at times. I would be worried that snowmelt will make the road a mess.
Supplemental directions: To get to the trad area travel north on FR 44. At the intersection for road 248 stay to the right (the sign for 248 was in the middle of the fork and unclear which road was 248 and which was FR 44). Continue on FR44, you will pass spur road 44A on the left. Go about .6 miles further and you will come to an unmarked road on the left. This is the road to the trad area. Take this left and drive about a mile until you get to the gate mentioned in the guide book and park on the right (obvious parking area). Look for the fire ring on the southeast corner of the parking area and follow the cairns to the wall. The trad wall is east and south of the fire ring.
El Rito
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