Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
BETA PHOTO: Scott Jones gearing up under the Chimney Pod.
Description
A variation finish to Cross-trainer which can be reached several different ways. It climbs a chimney/offwidth crack system for a pitch up to the summit. Not as difficult as it looks. Starting from a big grassy ledge, climb into a chimney pod. Then stem your way up an off-width section to a small roof. A large chock stone helps get past this section, although the chock wiggles slightly as you crank on it. Easier climbing leads to the top, and keeping to the right will place you at the summit anchors for Cross-trainer.
Location
The Chimney/OW finale can be reached a number of ways. The large grassy ledge at the bottom of this pitch is just around the corner from the last belay stance on Cross-trainer. A direct route to this ledge climbs the first 70m of Cross-trainer and then climbs left into a parallel crack system for about 80m. This parallel crack system meanders a bit, but is well protected and can be climbed at an easy grade (5.6) with good route-finding techniques. Descend as for Cross-trainer.
Protection
Large pieces are useful, but all the crux moves can be protected with large nuts placed deep in the crack.