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Checkerboard Wall
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Green Thumb 

5.6

   

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Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.6 [details]
Length: 150 feet
Views: 170 page views

Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on Nov 17, 2006


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Robert Machina after the crux. The OW resolves int...


Description 

This is another Un-named route that I have dubbed. It is on several old topos for the Checkerboard as one of the more prominent first pitch variations. What makes it nice is that it is easy to recognize, and offers a fixed anchor midway up tha wall. It also has good rock (except for the start which is flaky), fun moves, and a beautiful and easy off-width portion. The crux move is getting into the offwidth.

The climb follows the wide crack and traverses right under a roof or two. After one such traverse, there is a prominent and attractive off-width which cleaves a smooth slab (about 20 ft long). Optionally you can continue traversing right passing some old poot slings, and climb a chimney variation (with a big tree in it).


Location 

The middle of the Checkerboard wall has a large protruding buttress. This climb starts on the right side of this buttress in a large crack with two roof sections jutting out. From the belay ledge, a double rope rap can reach the ground, or continue up other variations to the summit.


Protection 

Standard rack, with a few large pieces, especially for the off-sidth section. the off-width crack can be climbed without a large piece by protecting at the crux move with a bomber nut, and then running out the rope for 20 ft on easier terrain. The belay ledge has plenty of loose rock, and has one old 1/4" bolt, as well as some poot-slings for fixed gear.



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Looking up at the start. The OW is on the slab immediately above the first two blocky roofs, but before the larger roof.

BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the start. The OW is on the slab imm...


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By Aaron Hobson
Administrator
From: Las Cruces, NM
Nov 17, 2006

I dubbed this route Greenthumb due to the amount of vegetation that had to be cleared out of the OW. It was so choked with vines that it was not even clearly recognizble from below. But they came out very easily, and revealed this nice climb.