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Description
Crack Wars or Whores has some interesting and good crack climbing on the right side of the Grotto, not to mention a clever pun for a route name.
(For what it's worth, with all the excellent sport climbs around, if you're climbing cracks in the Grotto, it's time to admit that you really will do just about anything to plug in gear)
Climb up the flake (which is apparantly solid) on either the left or the right to a left-leaning slab section. The business district looms ahead. Lieback and stem your way up the crack directly above, with a couple of decent rests and good pro the whole way- except for a short section where there's wobbly flakes in the crack. (Don't veer off right following a new bolt line- Ruffles Have Ridges 5.10a). Some of the lieback sections are pretty strenuous, but there's always good pro- and look for handholds out left and footholds on the right wall here or there. Most of this section is in the 5.10- range.
Near the top, the character of the rock becomes more featured (unlike the smooth glossy rock below), yet the crack widens to a 5" slot and the face is slightly overhanging. This is the crux. Place big cams in the back, jam and move up, clip the chains. Yeah- you'll be back for more sooner or later..
Thanks to Tom Wezwick and Karl Kiser for installing the rappel anchor at the top- Thanks!
Location
Crack Whores is climb 20 in the online Diablo guide for this section (however, there are a few new bolted routes not shown in that guide). It is the 2nd obvious crack to climb on the right side of the Grotto, after you enter it. Walk about 20' left of Class Act and Bong Crack and up a slope to the a large flake, which is at the base of the route.
Protection
Cams up to a #4 camalot, or an even bigger cam might be useful too. (If your largest cam is a #3 camalot-size, you'll likely be fine, but the #4 is nice to have at the crux.) Might want double cams in thin hands and hand size. Nuts are ok. A 2-bolt anchor at the top makes for an easy descent with a 50m rope.
Add CommentComments on Crack Wars (a.k.a. Crack Whores)
Tom Wezwick and I put the anchor in, cleaned it and climbed it. Dennis Jackson, in RCNM (2006), says Ken Sims climbed this route first and called it Crack Wars.
Venarete Area
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