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Grotto End (R. Side)
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Trailer Park Girls 
Unnamed Arete (Left of Tweak Fuck) 
Where the Wild Things Aren't 

Unnamed Arete (Left of Tweak Fuck) 

5.12b

   

FA: 
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 307 page views

Submitted By: Monomaniac on Apr 16, 2007


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Description 

Challenging moves up the stellar arete. Begin on the large boulder, from where it's possible to hang the first 3 or 4 draws depending on how sweet your stick clipping skills are. Wake up your belayer and get ready to crank as the first four moves are probably the hardest. A good sidepull and a tweaky pocket lead to a slopey crimp, then steadily improving holds to a great double crimp at the 2nd bolt. Engage your imported Italian slippers and traverse out to the arete and a decent shake below the 4th bolt. Some more classic arete moves and a short dyno to a crimp out right lead up the arete. Around the 6th bolt traverse onto the left face via pockets and sharp crimps, up over a slight bulge and a horizontal crack just below the anchor.


Location 

Furthest S route on the W wall of the Grotto. #27 in the photo topo.


Protection 

7 bolts, 2 BA