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Box of Chocolates 
Crack Wars (a.k.a. Crack Whores) 
Venarete 

Box of Chocolates 

5.12c

   

FA: Bryan Pletta?
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12c [details]
Length: 85 feet
Views: 98 page views

Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Nov 6, 2006


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Josh Smith attempting Box of Chocolates


Description 

Start climbing up a large flake hand crack or layback to the first bolt, about 15 feet. Make nice improbable moves past two more bolts to the crux. Here there are two bolts about two feet apart, the lower one with a quicklink. Make the hard crux moves to another bolt to a nice rest. From here pass about 6 more bolts on easier ground to the anchors.


Location 

On the opposite side of the arete of Rickety Rock. On the left are Ruffles have Ridges and Crack Whores.


Protection 

11 Bolts to Anchors.


Grade 

This is my guess for a grade, with a lot of hanging through the crux. It's rated 10c in the guide, but is probably at least 2 number grades harder. First clue was it's slightly overhanging nature with few holds. Second clue was 10c chalked on the wall with a "NO" symbol around it. So could be +/- a few letter grades but I found it way harder than the other 12b's in the area.



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Josh Smith lowering off Box of Chocolates on a beautiful, sunny, fall day in the Grotto

Josh Smith lowering off Box of Chocolates on a bea...


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By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Nov 7, 2007

Rumor has it that this is a Bryan Pletta route and is an open project still awaiting the FFA. The naming in the Jemez rock book was an error. Grade is probably closer to 13a.