Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
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Description
A really nice trad route up the beautiful crack on the left side of the wall. Can be done either by going up into the gully and traversing right into the route. There is also a more difficult to protect start that starts directly at the bottom of the crack. Belayer can anchor into bolts at the left end of the gully, way left of the crack.
Location
See climb 10 on map photo, yellow dots show the way. Smaller yellow dots show the easier to protect variation.
Protection
Gear up to red Camalot, wires. Long slings recommended to reduce rope drag. 2 bolt anchor.
the direct start is not that difficult to protect, just need some small stuff. Best to use a cam for first piece off the ground so that directional rope drag does not lift your nut placement.
I did the FA of this route in 1999 or 2000. We installed an anchor from the mesa, cleaned, and then I led it. I believe Theo Takeda and Alisa Green were with me, but I could be misremembering.
-Walt Wehner
By Anthony Stout Administrator From: Albuquerque, NM Dec 4, 2006
Thanks! I really appreciate that information, added. What a great first ascent, I really enjoyed this route!
I expect this route had been led earlier, primarily because it is such a pretty line. Chris Kessler and I used a crow bar to clean some huge blocks off the route prior to the placement of the current bolt anchor. Chris led it and called it Tight Little Package.
Evil Paradise Area
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