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Pulling the ledgy face moves (and trailing George...
Description
A sustained, lengthy route tackling a series of roofs to a final exposed crux move from a face over one last roof. Mostly 5.10+ until the last moves. Final hard move can be avoided by going right at the last bolt.
Location
This is the bolted face/arete with a number of roofs just to the right of Original Face Route.
Protection
Although this route previously had 13 bolts, it has been changed. With the new bolts... the bolt count is no longer 13- as stated in the guide- it's at least 2 more- probably more than that, ending at a chain anchor at a small, sloping ledge. You don't want to run out of draws! Two 50m ropes are required to descend. Long draws on the bolts under the roofs are nice to minimize rope drag but aren't required.
If you climbed this with 1 60m rope and didn't trail a 2nd line, you could get down by rapping first to the Original Face Route anchors, and down from there. 2 ropes has to be better, though.
Aaron Miller thinks Rick Bradshaw didn't put this one up....we don't know who did. However...this fall, Aaron retroed a few bolts in the middle of the route to move the climb away from a bad section of rock. It now goes over better quality rock for a few bolts and all the fun stuff is still there. This is a really nice route.
This route was established by some combination of Mark Thomas, Tom Wezwick, Karl Kiser, and Chris Kessler, all of whom worked together on several routes at Diablo and in particular on the Winter Wall.
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Mar 15, 2008 rating: 5.11a
Watch out, this one has more than the 13 bolts listed in the guides.
Also, if you climbed this with 1 60m rope and didn't trail a 2nd line, you could get down by rapping first to the Original Face Route anchors, and down from there. 2 ropes has to be better, though.
Aaron, thanks for improving this climb. It's definitely worth climbing.
Sun Devil/ Winter Wall
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