Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Mr. Perkins nearing the large roof in the upper ha...
Description
Start on the clean slab left of the bushy slab (about 30' right of Roid Boys). Move up the easy slab, turn through a low roof through the middle with a funky hand traverse from right to left (low crux). Cruise more low angle crack to the obvious hand crack pulling through the roof. Turn the roof (2nd crux) with great hand jams. From here, head to the anchors (just out of sight) that are up another 20' and on the blunt arete to the left.
Location
30' right of Roid Boys, pick out a hand crack splitting through a roof 60' up. Vitaman goes through this. (This climb is not shown on the beta photo) To descend, rap/lower the route with one 60m rope.
Protection
1 set cams up to 3". 1 set nuts. Nothing tiny (micro cams or micro-nuts) needed. Long runners useful. A 2-bolt anchor w/ chains is at the top.
By Jason Hundhausen From: Los Alamos, NM Dec 3, 2007 rating: 5.10a
Fun route. Great holds at the first route, even better jams at the second combined with easier slabs in between put this route on the easy side of 5.10 IMO. Chains are above and to the left of the second roof, out of sight. Perhaps placing them down a little lower would've helped the rope drag and provide a little more room on the lower/rap. Definitely need a 60m rope.
In D. Jackson's book, Rock Climbing New Mexico, topo shows route #3 and calls it Roid Boys; this is not correct, #3 is Vitaman; Roid Boys is not shown on the topo map.