Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
Start up 5.7 slab with 1 or 2 trad pieces (or solo); you can also clip first bolt of Sunbaked if you want which won't really protect you all the way to the next bolt. Then straight up near vertical crux to a BIG ledge, then continue up another steeper section to the anchor on a ledge. Some people like to put in another piece of gear (med. nut) after the big ledge, but many competent 5.10 climbers will be happy with only quickdraws on this climb (no gear). The big ledge halfway up this route leaves it feeling a little discontinuous, and the fact that you need to bring gear or climb unprotected at the start probably makes this see a little less traffic than others at the grade.
Location
Climb 12 in the beta photo. The excellent original online guide photo may help. On the far right side of Winter Wall, the columns are oriented such that they diagonal downward to the right. This is the left of the two climbs in this area.
Protection
5 bolts up high. To reach the first bolt, nuts or 1 or 2 cams (3/4" or 1" or so) is necessary, unless ok with soloing up to 5.7 for 30'. 2 bolt anchor.
This route takes small nuts surprisingly well. I found two solid placements before the first bolt and another one after the big ledge midway through. A decent route.
This route was established by some combination of Mark Thomas, Tom Wezwick, Karl Kiser, and Chris Kessler, all of whom worked together on several routes at Diablo and in particular on the Winter Wall. I think Chris was the driver on this one.
Mixed route put up by Tom Wezwick and Karl Kiser. We climbed an easy route to the left which probably should not be done because of bad rock near the top.
Sun Devil/ Winter Wall
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