Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
This climb is mainly slabby and easy, but a couple of the steep sections move through blocky overhangs and finding feet in these places is interesting but just enough big holds are there to hang on while you cut your feet loose with moves that maybe 'roids would help with. The unusual flavor for an easier Diablo sport climb makes this one worth checking out, and the punctuated cruxes with good rests and easy ground in between make it seem easier than most at the grade here.
Location
Route 10 in beta photo. Toward the right side of Winter Wall- it's the 3rd sport climb from the right. The excellent original online guide photo may help. Rap the route with a 60m rope (and PAY ATTENTION TO THE END OF IT- it will come up a couple meters short of the ground, depending on rope stretch, even if rappelling; or bring a 2nd rope)
By Jason Hundhausen From: Los Alamos, NM Dec 4, 2007 rating: 5.10a
In D. Jackson's book, Rock Climbing New Mexico, topo shows route #3 and calls it Roid Boys; this is not correct, #3 is Vitaman; Roid Boys is not shown on the topo map.
This route was established by some combination of Mark Thomas, Tom Wezwick, Karl Kiser, and Chris Kessler, all of whom worked together on several routes at Diablo and in particular on the Winter Wall.
Tom Wezwick and I climbed the crack to the right and put the anchor in (previously climbed because old sling found in crack). Mark Thomas then put up Roid Boys and placed the upper bolts so they could be used by both routes (rock at the top of the crack less than good).