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Sun Devil/ Winter Wall
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Roid Boys 

5.10a

   

FA: Mark Thomas
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 104 feet
Views: 157 page views

Submitted By: George Perkins on Oct 23, 2007


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Description 

This climb is mainly slabby and easy, but a couple of the steep sections move through blocky overhangs and finding feet in these places is interesting but just enough big holds are there to hang on while you cut your feet loose with moves that maybe 'roids would help with.
The unusual flavor for an easier Diablo sport climb makes this one worth checking out, and the punctuated cruxes with good rests and easy ground in between make it seem easier than most at the grade here.


Location 

Route 10 in beta photo. Toward the right side of Winter Wall- it's the 3rd sport climb from the right.
The excellent original online guide photo may help.
Rap the route with a 60m rope (and PAY ATTENTION TO THE END OF IT- it will come up a couple meters short of the ground, depending on rope stretch, even if rappelling; or bring a 2nd rope)


Protection 

8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.



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By Jason Hundhausen
From: Los Alamos, NM
Dec 4, 2007
rating: 5.10a

In D. Jackson's book, Rock Climbing New Mexico, topo shows route #3 and calls it Roid Boys; this is not correct, #3 is Vitaman; Roid Boys is not shown on the topo map.

By Rick Bradshaw
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 8, 2008

This route was established by some combination of Mark Thomas, Tom Wezwick, Karl Kiser, and Chris Kessler, all of whom worked together on several routes at Diablo and in particular on the Winter Wall.

By Karl Kiser
Apr 1, 2008

Tom Wezwick and I climbed the crack to the right and put the anchor in (previously climbed because old sling found in crack). Mark Thomas then put up Roid Boys and placed the upper bolts so they could be used by both routes (rock at the top of the crack less than good).