Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Kevin on Grape Ape.
Description
Big muscles will power you over the technical cruxes through the roof section, but save something for the hairy, airy, and crimpy headwall. Splendid position, long route, cool moves.
To find this route, look for the trail that goes along the base of the cliff and follow it until you find a wooden post at the beginning of Post Moderate. Grape Ape is the bolted line just to the left of this route.
Protection
Bolts, around 17(?) to bolt anchors. Two 50m ropes required for the descent.
Excellent climb. Crux going over roof. Watch out for thin top. If you get pumped on lower part the top will get your attention if grip is weak on crimpers.
By Monomaniac From: Morrison, CO Mar 5, 2007 rating: 5.10c
This route is awesome. Best 5.10 I've done at Diablo. For some reason the rock is several grades better than all the other routes in the canyon.
Great climb. The quality of rock is some of the best in the canyon. The over abundance of chalk takes a bit away from the onsight experience. But what else can you expect from one of the best 5.10s in the state!
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Apr 21, 2008 rating: 5.10c
The name Grape Ape reportedly originated from a hairy belligerent purple-fleece-wearing Santa Fean who was working on a nearby trad route at the time of the FA, and wasn't too psyched about the LA crew drilling a 17-bolt sport route right next to it. You can see the purple fleece on the ground in Bradshaw's photo from the FA
George's story on the name is sort of close to the truth but significantly more entertaining so I won't spoil it. I think Ken Kisiel came up with the moniker after a brief encounter with the hairy gentleman when we were working on establishing the route. We changed the line a bit to accommodate his concern, which actually made the route a bit better. The name made us laugh so much we named it after him.
Sun Devil/ Winter Wall
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