Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
The start climbs past two bolts on low angle rock. After cliping a bolt just where the overhang begins, push yourself through STEEP overhanging rock, clipping four fixed draws, then going over the lip. Take a good rest and finish on a 5.11d roof at the top of the route. Watch the cactus following the 5.11d roof, removing cactus splinters for the next two days was NOT the highlight of my climbing trip!
Location
On the far right of the Solar Cave crag there are a few projects, then a 5.12b called Clovis Hunter. Just to the left of that route you will see a series of four fixed draws. This is the route that you are looking for.
Sapien was my FAVORITE route in the cave, but it recently lost some critical rock in the middle, bumping the grade up to 12d (so they say---I haven't been on it since).
The route definitely feels more sustained now with the missing jug and heel hooking ledge gone between the 1st and second bolts. The second clip is sort of cruxy now. Perhaps now a little closer to the original 12d rating.
Solar Cave
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