Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
This climb is a north facing route that offers some fine Diablo moderate trad climbing that is usually free from crowds. It is a good choice on a hot day. Start up a moderate off width in a left facing dihedral and continue to some wide hands to hands out the top with dependable gear placements all of the way up. Bolted anchors were eventually put on this route because we were getting tired of having to jump or down climb off of the island.
Location
This is the only trad route on the north side, and it is directly to the right of and shares anchors with "Slap Happy" which is a sport route. The north side is also found around the corner right from "Dog Bite at Diablo" which is referred to in some guide books as "Larcombe's Lament", which is a snaked route
Protection
Double set of Camalots from #1 to #4, some runners and quick draws, a 2 bolt anchor which might need some new sling or chains for lowering.
Is this the same as the 5.8 route that is called "No Name Crack" by Jackson (2006:153), Beverly (2006:230), and Bradshaw ( http://www.losalamos.com/diablo/Alcove.asp )?
Gilligan's Island (AKA The Alcove)
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