Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
Ascends the arete above and to the right of Ergo. Move the belay from the top of Ergo up two bolts to another set of anchors at the base of the arete to make the route 100ft, allowing the leader to be safely lowered using a 200ft rope. Classic arete climbing on beautiful rock with increasing exposure and difficulty culminating with ~20ft of sustained 11+/12- moves near the top. Rick Smith convinced a group that was testing their guns in the canyon below that they were scaring our horses on the mesa top when the route was being established. They said "sorry" and left.
Location
Approach by climbing Ergo. CAUTION: It is about 115 feet from the top of Ergo to the top of the route. Move belay two bolts up the climb to a second anchor to allow safe lowering with a 200ft rope. Two 100ft rappels to the ground from the top.
Protection
Bolts are somewhat sparce at the crux 'cause there's nothing to clip from, but then there's nothing to hit on the way down either (clean falls). Most folks won't need gunfire to get their horses scared on this one. Springer (1/2" SS wire gate) anchors at the top and bottom.
Early Wall
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