Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
This challenging arete is excellent. Approach as for Early Arete, but continue the 3rd class traverse left. Begin up the dihedral until its possible to traverse onto the hanging wall. The crux begins at the end of the traverse, with difficult balancey moves getting established on the arete. Once on the arete more strenuous techery leads up to a dicey clip and finally a straight down jug. Rest up and cruise much easier, though never trivial, moves to the horizontal break, where one more challenging move gains the anchor. I thought it was harder than Early arete, but not ultra-sustained.
Location
Left end of Early Wall, the prominent hanging arete with bolts on the right side. 2nd bolted route from the left.
Protection
7 bolts, 2 bolt chain anchor. Bolt hangers are gold.
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