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Schmeming 

5.12a/b

   

FA: Ken Kisiel, Dennis Newell, and Scott Beguin FFA: Josh Smith
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 121 page views

Submitted By: Wa3lt on Nov 26, 2006


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Schmeming is #4


Description 

This route was first freed using traditional gear placements for the first 25 feet. Later, the FA party allowed bolts to be added to this otherwise R-rated section. The route is sustained, tricky, and thin throughout - bring your crimping fingers and be ready to keep your eyes on your feet!


Location 

Located to the left of Early Arete.


Protection 

8 bolts, 2 bolt anchor



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By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Apr 16, 2007

Pretty heinous hand-jamming at the start, and some hard-core stemming throughout. This things kinda schizophrenic--not sure if its a splitter crack, a dihedral, an arete, or a thin face.

By Scott Beguin
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 14, 2007
rating: 5.12a

First Ascent Party was Ken Kisiel, Dennis Newell, and Scott Beguin, before it was retrobolted by team Bradshaw by approval of the first ascensionists. I believe Josh Smith bagged the first free ascent after bolts were added.

By Josh Smith
Jun 23, 2008

Not that it matters, but I did it before the bolts went in. Spicy. Good route, and better now that it's better protected.