Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
This stout number begins above a talus covered shelf. A steep overhang right off the ground provides the brief crux of powerful and sequential pockets. Beware of the 2-finger sucker side pull at the start that could easily cause a severe injury. Instead use the large but less-deep 3 finger dish up and right. A long move leads to a good jug, then a devious crux move leads to more jugs, and fun cruising on good crimps to the anchor.
Location
Furthest left (east) route in the "main" poultrygeist area. That is, there are two routes on the far left (east) end of this section of cliff (Cha cha and Cock Star), then a 50 yd break with no routes, then a grouping of 8 bolted routes. This route is the furthest left in this group of 8.
Do not begin this route directly or from the right. The shelf at the base is covered with numerous heinous death blocks waiting to assault unsuspecting climbers. Instead, start from the far left, and traverse right onto the shelf below B1.
Yeah this felt a little hard for 10d to me as well. I liked the route quite a bit though, I think it had fun moves...
By Anthony Stout Administrator From: Albuquerque, NM Apr 6, 2008 rating: 5.11a
Agreed, felt more difficult than rated. Would be even more difficult for shorter people. Long and reachy moved definitely favor those with a longer reach.