Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
Really thin moves on a smooth face lead to a tough roof to enjoyable arete climbing above to the anchors. A large block at the roof offers nice holds all around but just appears to be sketchy. I tried not to pull on it too hard!
Location
This is the farthest right climb in the Poultrygeist area. This route is listed as route 25 in Marc Beverly's "Jemez Rock & Pecos Area" guidebook published by Sharp End. NOTE: In Beverly's book the route is listed as 5.8. This is incorrect. (I chose this "5.8" as my warm-up before quickly realizing it was NOT 5.8!) Ha!
FA was by Rick Bradshaw, in 2000. I might have been helping out that day too, but I can't remember. I did help Rick put up about 10 of the Cockcomb routes.
The start of this thinkg is a bit whack. Obviously the idea is to start on the arete, where there are virtually no holds. I used the arete and the crack to the right, which is a bit weak. Middle and top of this route is awesome.