Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
Starts just to the right of, and gains the same ledge as (08) Casada Noodle Soup. To spot the route just look up for a bolt line heading between two distinct cracks. Once gaining the initial ledge you can step up and clip the first bolt. A few reachy, semi difficult moves will lead to some easier ones and a smooth face with cracks on either side of the bolt line. Nice route, though one you gain the face it seems to wander back and fourth across the face (contrived)! The route setters intended for the route to head up the center between cracks for the 5.10d grade. Though the cracks are so close to the bolt line, it is very tempting to reach for the large jugs that are part of the crack system. Staying between the cracks would definitely increase the grade to or beyond the 10d listed in the guides (R. Bradshaw and JM Beverly). However, you can easily clip the bolts heading up either crack system.
Directly up the bolt line is stiff 10d. The two cracks are tempting and close. I climbed it like most people by wandering. Use both cracks and you get a great 10a/b. Harder than the Egg but only a little. I did it on sight. My friends were very impressed since they didn't see me use the cracks.
Walt Wehner and I established this route. We climbed it, named it, and rated it based on the direct line (no crack), which is aesthetic but in retrospect a bit contrived given the proximity of the crack. I think the direct line requires better (more fun) movement, but its fun any way you do it.
I recently did this route without using the cracks. Not too contrived if you ask me, just a little bit of self control is needed to keep from reaching out to the crack.
Climbing without the cracks makes for a very fun climb. If you make it using the cracks, go back and try without. Likewise I suppose I'll see how the route feels using the cracks, either way probably worth climbing....
Chicken Little Area
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