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Poultrygeist Area

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(01) Chicken Cha Cha 
(03) Cockwork Orange 
(04) Finger Lichen Good 
(05) Stunt Cock 
(06) Chicken Out 
(07) Cock -a-doodle-do 
(09) Poultrygeist 
(10) Chicks with Ricks 
(11) Crack L of Cockeyed 
(12) Cockeyed 
(13) Fowl Play 

Poultrygeist Area

Submitted By: Anthony Stout on May 17, 2006
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Anthony Stout, George Perkins
Views: 189 page views

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Description 

The routes at the Poultrygeist area tend to be a little more diverse than those on in the Chicken Little Area, with more pockets, overhangs, some jugs, and some exciting stemming. I thought the routes actually tended to be more fun here, in general. The routes range from low 5.10 to 5.12a.


Getting There 

See Photo. Head right from the top of the trail at Chicken Little area, heading along the base of the cliffs until you get past a chossy area of rock to nice stone again.


Routes 

Walking toward the right from the Chicken Little Area, you will come across two routes in nice rock. It will be an obvious break from the choss. These first two routes are (left to right):

(01) Chicken Cha Cha (5.10d)
(02) Cock Star (5.11c)

Continuing right along the path, you will come upon a series of other routes. Again, from left to right, these routes are:

(03) Cockwork Orange (5.10d)
(04) Finger Lichen Good (5.10a)
(05) Stunt Cock (5.12a)
(06) Chicken Out (5.10c)
(07) Cock -a-doodle-do (5.11c)
(08) Chicken Fingers (5.10c), Trad
(09) Poultrygeist (5.11a)
(10) Chicks with Ricks (5.10c)
(11) Crack L of Cockeyed (5.9), Trad
(12) Cockeyed (5.10c), See note below
(13) Fowl Play (5.11a), See note below

NOTE: Cockeyed and Fowl Play are both rated incorrectly in Beverly's Jemez Rock, as both are listed as 5.8. The ratings above more correctly represent the difficulties of the climbs and also are the ratings in Rick Bradshaw's online guide.



Featured Route For Poultrygeist Area
Rick Bradshaw on the first ascent.

(07) Cock -a-doodle-do 5.11c  NM : Diablo Canyon : ... : Poultrygeist Area
A nice route heading up a prominent nose looking arete. Starts as a slab. Great route with less than secure moves in places....[more]


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By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 24, 2006

A word of CAUTION:
The two far right climbs at the Poultrygeist area, Cockeyed and Fowl Play, are mis-rated in the excellent Jemez Rock & Pecos Area guidebook by Marc Beverly. Both are listed as 5.8 but are considerably more difficult.

Cockeyed is 5.10c and Fowl Play is 5.11a as per the online guide.

By Scott Beguin
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 19, 2007

I agree about the ratings. I would not consider this guide excellent, but only inaccurate on many occations. Just an opinion and an observation. Thanks for the beta Jason.