Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Mike Anderson sending "Handsome Parish Lady" in Ea...
Description
This is a fine route in an idyllic, secluded canyon. The stone is excellent and it hasn't suffered the erosion that other popular Cochiti routes like "Touch Monkey" and "Gunning for the Budda" have over the years. The route is also uncommonly steep, with big, positive holds.
Start on some steep (for Cochiti) jug hauling up good, incut pockets. The route soon rolls over onto a slab and so begins the crux section, with a few hard pulls on shallow, slopey pockets with technical feet. There is a long span between the 2nd and 3rd bolt that could lead to a groundfall, if your belayer isn't paying attention.
After the slab, the wall quickly steepens again, so you'll be forced to fight the pump to the top as long moves between good pockets don't allow for very good rests. It seemed only sporting to me to avoid the arete's on either side of the panel.
Rumor has it there is an optional variation to head right near the top on a gradually windening splitter crack. I don't reckon that will see too much action from kids these days.
Location
South Wall of Eagle Canyon, right (west) of the tunnel, up high in a protected alcove. It climbs the overhanging right wall of a square cut column.
Eagle Canyon
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