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Eagle Canyon
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Unnamed Middle 

5.11c

   

FA: 
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11c [details]
Length: 95 feet
Views: 53 page views

Submitted By: Monomaniac on Oct 9, 2007


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In the crux section of "Unnamed Middle".


Description 

Another excellent, long Eagle Canyon face climb. This line faces slightly more north than its twin "Unnamed Left", so it receives more shade, and so is a bit mossy-er. Despite the slightly less than ideal stone, this route offers a rope-stretching pitch of great climbing capped by an intimidating roof.

Begin by scrambling up the ramp-like dihedral. Head up the steep slab to a technical crux around the 4th and 5th bolts. A timely jaunt onto the right arete provides some key relief before veering back left. The final roof can be surmounted directly on good pockets, or its possible to traverse left around it, depending on your preference.


Location 

Immediately right of "Unnamed Left", or two routes right of "Manhattan".


Protection 

10 bolts, shares the anchor with "Unnamed Left".



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The entertaining start of "Unnamed Middle".

The entertaining start of "Unnamed Middle".


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By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Aug 22, 2008

Only 10 bolts, and I thought the crux was between the 3rd and 4th bolt, but it is pretty sustained all the way.