Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Enjoying the excellent "Unnamed" on the south side...
Description
This brilliant line climbs nearly 100 feet of pristine pockets, knobs and edges. Begin by scrambling with difficulty up to the exposed, slopy ledge below "Manhattan". Best to leave your belayer on the ground, which is doable if you have a 60m rope. Stick clip the first bolt, and traverse right onto the cinnamon colored scoop. Surmount the cruxy bulge near the right arete, then move back left onto the faces. An endless sea of pockets and knobs continues upwards. Around mid-height a series of shallow scoops appears on the left. Its possible to climb into these scoops, but they offer no respite, and exiting these features is awkward and difficult. Best to stay right.
Location
Immediately right of "Manhattan".
Protection
13 bolts and 2 BA. Bring a lot of draws and a stick clip for the first bolt.
By Jason Halladay From: Los Alamos, NM Oct 14, 2007 rating: 5.11b
We started from the ledge up left towards "Manhattan" and didn't use a stick clip for the first bolt. It's not too bad to do this but blowing the first clip wouldn't be good. If you have a stick, use it.
Eagle Canyon
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