Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Nearing the top of Dynabolic.
Description
This squeeze-job makes for an enjoyable climb if you can ignore the contrivance of the bolt job. Presumably the route is "designed" to avoid various obvious jugs near the right arete, and the obvious splitter crack at the top, thus achieving the desried 5.12a grade. However, most normal climbers will use all of these obvious features, which are well within reach of the bolts, bringing the grade to the much more manageable 11b-ish range.
Begin as for the Prow, but avoid the obvious cracks to the right and head straight up the thin face. The crux hits on a thin patch of pockets getting from the 3rd bolt to the 4th. From here a series of difficult-to-ignore huecos head up 2 feet right of the bolt line. These huecos tend to lead the climber onto the arete, which is surely "off", but again, hard to ignore. It is possible to clip all of the lead bolts from teh arete. Head back left at some arbitrary point that is surely critical to the grade of the route. A splitter crack on the right can be used at this point for further assistance just below the anchor.
If you want to preserve the 12a grade, this is a 1 star contrived pile, but if you follow the natural line, this is a nice variation to the prow that adds some good techncial moves and avoids the intimidating roof finish.
Location
Immediately right of "Crackerjack" and left of "The Prow".
South Cliffband
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