Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
This route begins as for Finger in the Socket, on the prominent, square-cut arete. Ascend juggy flakes and pockets on the steep left side of the arete, reaching around the arete easily to clip. It may be possible to slab up the right side along the bolts, but it doesn't look too fun. A good rest atop the slab/arete offers the last chance to bail onto the apparently easier Finger In the Socket.
From the rest continue left up the steepening wall on small but positive pockets. Take a final shake before the thin, sharp crux on small crimps with poor feet. A hard-to-see four-inger bucket delivers you to an easy mantle and slabby finish.
Location
This is the first bolted route right/south of the rockslide. This route shares the first four bolts with Finger in the Socket, then moves left, passing two more bolts, before moving back right to the share anchors with Finger In the Socket.
Protection
6 Bolts, 2 bolt chain anchor. One of the few routes on this seection of cliff with a quality anchor.