Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Touch Monkey in sun and shade. If you have a bett...
Description
This sandbagged line is the centerpiece of Cochiti's North Cliffband, and likely the most sought after route at Cochiti. Its also likely the tweakiest route at Cohiti, with an evil, technical crux on insanely shallow, sloping pockets. Judging from the copious amounts of chalk at the crux, many a hard man has tangled with this impossible-to-ignore classic, though the equally stunning lack of chalk above the 5th bolt seems to indicate that few have succeeded.
The climb begins in the large dihedral crack. Stand up in the corner until its possible to grab the large, positive dish with your left hand. From here charge up towards the left arete, making big moves on deep, positive pockets. Its possible to climb up onto the slabby arete for a good rest, but this seems a bit lame, and is certainly unnecessary.
Cop a dubious undercling rest at the 3 inch roof, clip the 4th bolt, and enter the crux. Sequential moves on heinously shallow pockets lead to the worst mono at Cochiti. Deadpoint from the mono up to two good pockets and clip the 5th bolt.
The word on the street is that these pockets have crumbled somewhat over time. This theory seems entirely likely considering the nature of the Cochiti stone, and perhaps explains why this route seems so hard for a 'lowly' 13a. However, the route has been redpointed as recently as late 2006.
After the 5th bolt, 20 feet of sustained 11+ slabbing lead to the anchors. Again, its possible to use either arete, but its not necessary, and seems a bit weak.
Location
Touch Monkey is the next route that faces south after Gunning for the Buddha, or the first fully bolted route left of Back to Montana. It is also the obvious, lightly bulging face that calls out like a Siren, begging to be climbed.
Protection
6 bolts, 2 bolt chain anchor. Stick clip the first bolt.
North Cliffband
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