This area currently features five 40' climbs on moderate quality limestone. All routes have bolted anchors, but all require gear placement. The routes are short but sustained. The rock is sharp.
The best season for this northwest facing cliff is on summer mornings (shade) or spring and fall afternoons (sun). This area is best considered as a convenient opportunity for climbers around Placitas/Bernalillo or the north side of Albuquerque to grab a couple hours of climbing. Basically, this is an "after work" crag if you want to do some trad leads instead of boulder.
The view from the crag is beautiful, especially sunsets. You will generally see very few people, mostly a few local residents walking their dogs.
The minimum equipment for this area is a 90' gym rope, 8-10 draws, and a half rack (single set cams and nuts). Gear is generally medium to small, and sometimes tricky.
This crag is in the wilderness boundary. All bolts were hand drilled. Please observe a wilderness ethic if establishing new routes.
Getting There
Take the exit from I-25 and head east to Placitas. 4.8 miles from the Interstate you will see Tunnel Springs road on the right (look for the cluster of mailboxes). Turn south on Tunnel Springs road (FR 231) and drive through the development to the trailhead. (This takes ~twenty minutes from north Albuquerque.)
The approach to the cliffs is a pleasant ten minute hike along the North Crest Trail which heads east from the main parking lot. When the cliff band comes closest to the trail, hike uphill 100 yards to the routes.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Tunnel Springs: