BETA PHOTO: The new Hummer Finish goes up the gullet.
Description
This route follows the major cleaved fault that runs up the main face and can be easily seen from the Spur Trail. However, there are many variations (like Smorgasbord on the Shield). The rock is way worse than it was just a few years ago and I've pulled off some huge stones that I used to place pro in. That being said, the route is WAY cleaner now.
The first pitch starts at the golf ball I found and wedged into flake near the ground. Follow the crack up to easy face climbing with little protection. Pass trees on your left and gain a nice belay stance near the major fault.
The next pitch goes up the vertical fault line (great pro) for about 50', then turns back into more grippy and fun face climbing. An optional belay stance can be gained or you can run it up to the two bolt belay stance at the large ledge.
From the two bolt belay, there is a pitchfork selection to finish: Left: Cruise the slab and turn a well protected crack (5.8 ish)
Right: from the bolts, go 8-10' right and start up a swirving crack to the right (the old ground level belay stance is farther to the right of this start). Finish by a bit of 5.8+ r/o to the top.
Up the gullet (FFA Marc Beverly, Steve VanSickle 2009): Look up and find a single bolt. Clip it and crank hard to turn the roof. The fun's not over. Creative gear on pockets and shallow grooves goes straight up (5.10).
Walk off the back. Take Runnel Runner out past Sick Bird or walk out via the scree gully via the Point Summit.
Location
Approach via the "Y" and wiggle through brush down Echo Canyon. Stay to skier's right and pass the start of the Ramp where a small outcrop of rock can be passed by simply going around it to find the start of Hummingbird. The golf ball start marks the rope-up area.
Shouldn't this be called The Ramp Area or some such thing? This whole Rudder thing is way confusing me thinks?? People know where the Ramp is...my 2 cents.
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