BETA PHOTO: The start of Unusual Suspects. I have not climbed...
Description
Two nice pitches of Sandia adventure climbing with no fixed gear. The climbing is moderate but the protection is not obvious. Almost all the rock is surprisingly solid. Both pitches are of similar difficulty.
Location
The route is on the south end of the formation. Near the south end of the wall is a distinct corner system with an old piton about 10-15 ft up. The route starts just right of this corner on a pillar with a short but nice hand crack just off the ground.
P1 Climb the pillar and cracks up for 25 ft to where they meet a bulge. Climb directly over the bulge and continue directly above on nice face climbing to a small roof and right facing corner, turn the roof and begin trending up and slightly right to a nice ledge and belay tree about 150ft up.
P2 Climb Straight up off the belay aiming for the compact headwall and obvious tree at the top of the formation. Climb mostly face and short crack systems to a slight bulge about 100ft of the belay. A short crux section leads to more face climbing with intermittent protection straight to the top of the formation. Belay just above the tree on nice ledges a few feet from the true top of the formation.
A short stroll eastward (towards the crest) leads the forested slopes which connect to either the Torreon's or Sentinel's returns to the crest.
The photo Bill posted is the start of Unusual Suspects. Exactly where you want to start the route. I'm glad my description led you right to the start. Do this route, it is surprisingly good. Maybe worth three stars?
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