P1 climbs off a ledge with a tree, move up and right to a open book with a splitter finger crack on the left wall of the open book. Step from the corner into the finger crack and climb straight up to a ledge. Move up and right from the ledge traversing to another ledge and a nice hand crack leading straight up. When the crack ends step left and belay on a ledge, there is a bolt off the L end of the ledge 120ft 5.9. P2 clip the bolt and step up and left off the ledge, this is a new bolted variation that 1)straightens the line and 2)avoids some of the choss of the original start to the 2nd pitch. After clipping the second bolt continue up and slightly left to a ledge system. From the ledge climb a superb shallow corner, step left after 30ft or so and traverse to a larger left facing corner system, follow nice cracks up to a ledge in a corner, there should be a nice 3" inch crack leading up off the ledge 130ft 5.10a. P3 Climb the crack straight up off the belay to a ledge and continue up into a big left facing corner system. Climb the corner to a roof and turn the roof to the right. Belay a little higher at a bolt and good 2" crack 150ft 5.9. P4 step right off the belay and do a delicate traverse right (crux) trending up and right into a shallow corner. Follow the corner to the top. Eventually you can either keep trending right to the top of Torreon or go straight up to a large ledge and good tree belay. The last 40-60ft of this pitch deteriorates into not so good climbing 150ft 5.10a. Most of this climb is excellent and I think its one of the best climbs of its grade in the Sandias.
Location
The climb is located about 200ft left of Mountain Momma. The climb starts off a ledge that is 40ft or so above ground level. If you approach Torreon via its standard approach gully you will pass right under Crossroads just before you would scramble over open talus to get down to the start of Mountain Momma.
Protection
Standard Sandia rack with a couple 3" pieces for the second belay and 3rd pitch. A couple of bolts protect the face variation on P2 and 1 bolt at the 3rd belay which also protects the crux of P4.
Lets first say that this route is A LOT cleaner than it was when I first ventured on it in 97 and again in 01. Each previous time we cleaned heavily - and vowed never to return again!
There are some beautiful sections of rock on this route, as well as some time bombs. Many of these larger blocks are lose - but are "keyed" in and may never come off (especially on P3). It is un-nerving to have blocks rattle around. This weekend we still cleaned off a few lose "brief case size" pieces on P1 and P2, and a big one on P3. [The bolted variation on P2 is very nice and lead you directly to a stellar finger dihedral (nice addition).] We also had a foot hold disappear while pulling the roof on P3 - my belayer had to take some of the debri directly. P4 has some VERY lose pieces, including a ledge that is no more - resulting in a barrage of rocks and dirt raining down on the belayer ... luckily this bolted belay (1 bolt) is protected by a small roof over head so I was able to avoid the majority of the falling pieces by cowering in a fetal position. There is a fixed piece on P4 right at the traverse crux - sort of marks the way.
This is a pretty nice route, but still needs some climbing/cleaning to make it "one of the best of its grade".
I would suggest NEVER follow another party on this route as you will end up eating rock fall. In addition - if you are passing below crossroads headed to Mountain Mama and someone is one the route - move through quickly as there is a very good possibility of rock fall below.
It's not super clean, I agree, but your description of the rockfall potential is a bit exaggerated IMO. Especially on the first 2 pitches, those are quite clean. Nice finger and hand cracks. The 3rd pitch still has a bit of loose stuff, but it's easily avoided.
You might see some sucker tat on the 3rd pitch out to the right with some mighty large hanging gargoyles up higher. It's better to stay on route to the left instead. That's just a little "nugget".
Variation - Pitch 4: Go up the right-facing dihedral to near the closed roof and then go LEFT. It's a bit blind, but pros really well and provides some great climbing on clean rock.
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