South Peak Falls Area is located between the Second and Third Buttresses, or more aptly, in the main drainage of Three Gun springs. The falls rarely runs in the summer, but the eastern side of the ridge supplies South Peak Springs' water (that eventually drains to where the travertine falls formation is near the South Peak Trailhead). As a result, this area likely as the most water on this end of the Sandias. It is quite a secluded area.
Getting There
Apparently, the three canons were stashed in this canyon by the Spanish Conquistadors, hence the name Tres Pistolas. The easiest way is to approach from Three Gun Trailhead. From Albuquerque, take old hwy 66 to the Monticello community (3.0 miles) and turn left into the neighborhood and veer right briefly before being turned left and up the steep grade paved road for 0.5 miles (old signs mark the way to the trailhead.) Go left on Siempre Verde, then right onto the dirt road of Tres Pistolas, and drive up to the TH. Park here and start the hike up the trail.
Hike for about :15 minuts to gain access into the wilderness (sign) and continue on the main trail (old truck road). Pass Big Pile of Rocks on the right (old Matt Samet climbs) and break off to the right of the main drainage of Three Gun. A horse trough will assure you are in the right ravine.
Continue up this ravine towards the South Peak Falls Area by whatever means possible. Generally, I've found it best to stay right and gain a blunted ridge with some large boulders you can walk around, staying away from most of the bush whacking until you find yourself at the base of South Peak Falls.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Peak Falls:
South Peak Falls WI3-4 M3 X Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 2 pitches, 300 feet, Grade III
Nice. Thoundup and I attempted it in January '07 after the big snows; it only seems to come in nicely every few years or so. Anyways, ice was fat, fat, fat but ohhhhhhh so very bad - 2 days of warm temps before we made it up there. We finished the first pitch but bailed off the big tree at the base of the second pitch; my 6-week old daughter was sending me the "bad ice, no donut" vibe. But very cool; 2 pitches of ice viewable from my office in Albuquerque. What are the odds? Now if I can only get up there sometime when it's been real cold for a few days... Anyone attempt to approach it from the Crest Trail above?
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