After rapping to the base of the Yucca Flower Tower, head to the top of the pillar at your right (not the gully!). The route begins just at the top of this pillar.
Pitch 1 (80'): Head up the obvious crack though a small roof, continuing through a corner system. Below another roof, clip a piton, and move through some awkward roof moves. Just up and left of the crux, find the bolted belay (5.10b).
Pitch 2+3: Head straight up a fine looking finger crack (5.9+), after which you can either stop at a convenient belay ledge and make the climb 4 pitches, or continue up easy low angle climbing to the anchors on the rappel block.
Pitch 4: (We did not do this exit pitch, we went to the first rappel and exited at Great Escape, a MUCH nicer variation!) The original line climbs up and to the left of a right facing corner and to the top (5.4).
Protection
Double set to #1 Camalot, with 1 #2, and nuts and slings (will want some to avoid rope drag) will suffice.
did Var start to south for extra pitch. Is there a route comming up right 15m or so of the 10 B lots of lichen down low.. 11- or so little scary but took pro.
if standing on base of yucca flower look right and low at bottom of gully climb face that starts with a handle bar right facing lay back. climb up to buldge with loosy right facing overhang to gaston like placement red C3 TCU and gray c3 TCU for pro rps and # 2 camalot also protect crux.
could take this straight up but decided to traverse left onto the yucca ledge and brought up second
looking for info this would be more direct to 10C pitch
Also out right excellent looking arete.with pro..??
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