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DescriptionThe La Luz trail, running from the foothills of the Sandias to the Sandia Crest, runs directly through this canyon. There is a high concentration of stellar routes on the rock within Upper LaCueva Canyon. Also, in comparison to many other routes within the Sandias, the approaches can be shorter and easier. Getting ThereThough the routes within this canyon can be accessed from the lower part of the canyon (Juan Tabo Picnic Area in the foothills of Albuquerque), it is much easier to access them from the Sandia Crest. The La Luz trail begins on the South end of the Sandia Crest parking lot. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for La Cueva Canyon, Upper:
Northwest Ridge 5.5 Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III The Thumb
Northeast Corner 5.6 Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 80 feet Donald Duck
The Cave Route 5.7 Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 360 feet, Grade II The Pulpit
Miss Piggy 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 220 feet Hole in the Wall
Estrellita 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 110 feet Estrellita
Beat Around the Bush 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100 feet Estrellita
Pub Draught Guinness 5.8+ Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100 feet Science Friction & Windward...
The Happy Gnome 5.8+ Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III Yataghan
Aviary Ort Overhangs 5.9 Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade II The Thumb
Clean Sweep 5.10a Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100 feet Estrellita
Mountain Momma 5.10c Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III Torreon
Voodoo Child 5.11d Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III Torreon
Wizard of Air 5.12a Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III Torreon
Featured Route For La Cueva Canyon, Upper
Mexican Breakfast Crack 5.9+ NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : Mexican Breakfast Formation
Mexican Breakfast Crack is a high quality and clean crack with a wild crux traverse under a big roof, although much of the climb is somewhat widish, as with parts of English Breakfast Crack in Yosemite. Certainly, trad climbers in both NM and California eat cracks like this for breakfast!Pitch 1: Follow the clean left-facing corner under the right side of the big roof as it widens from big-hands to fist to offwidth. Sustained 5.8 to this point, bu...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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