(11) Stick Fort 

FA:  Vaino Kodas, Deborah Evans, Mark Ondrias, 2006 Type:  Sport Consensus:  5.12b [details] Length:  45 feet Views: 66 page views Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on May 10, 2009 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

This climb looks like it could be 5.10 until you get on it. Crank up through the choss band to the first bolt and make some difficult thin face moves to the second and third bolt. From here make use of some sidepulls and underclings to get to the 4th bolt and a bad undercling / pinch. Pull hard and hit the left traversing crack. Make a few more difficult moves to hit a nice rest and easier ground to the anchors.

A little chossy through the undercling crack, but should clean up quickly. Enjoyable powerful movment. Might be a touch easy for 12b.

http://www.vainokodas.com/climbing/nmroutes/dihedralwall.htm>>>>>

Location 

In between the Dihedrals and Randy's wall on a mostly undeveloped section of cliff. About 75 feet past the trad route Classic Jam Crack.

Protection 

7 Bolts to Anchors. Consider backcleaning the first bolt, as it is far to the right of the second bolt and you will be climbing between the two.