This short, fun crack ascends through a beautifully colored, patinated face. Kind of a bouldery start. Includes a variety of movement, from tips liebacking to straight-in jamming, but nothing lasts for very long; did I mention the route was pretty short?
Previously described by Moret (2003) in the online guide, and by Jackson (2006:279).
Location
Near the far-leftmost side of Randy's Wall. Pretty easy to navigate to, using the other bolted lines as landmarks; look for the patinated face through which the crack ascends.
Protection
Protects decently well with a standard rack of singles up to a #3 BD cam. The guide books say to bring big cams, but finger-sized are equally useful. Small nuts are useful for the seam at the start until you can get in a cam for a multidirectional placement. Two bolts with rings at the top anchor.
Fun climb! This is a confidence builder for the beginning trad leader. Placements are solid throughout and easy to find. If I remember correctly, I only used up to a #2 C4 camalot, but a #3 could be easily used towards the top.
By Bryan T From: Albuquerque, New Mexico Oct 11, 2009
Used a 4 and 5 nut in the left seam at the start set in as an oppositional. Rest of the climb I used C4 2-3 and all the Friends in between those sizes (Gold and purple) Some random nuts here and there and a #1 TCU at the top. Decent climb, good gear warmup. Tons of rodent shit.
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