Start slightly right of the bolt line on easy ground to a nice ledge. Pull a difficult mantle to reach the third bolt, being careful of the ledge, decking potential here. From here things get hard without using the left crack. Make a series of thin moves to get to and pass the 5th bolt and reach the anchors.
Location
Between "Surfer Boy and the Shrimp" and an unknown wide crack.
While the Bernard Moret guide calls this an easy tick at 11c, I found the top of this line to be considerably harder than 11c, more like 12b. Was I missing something or have some holds broken off? Much much easier if the left hand crack is used, somewhat contrived as it is easily within reach, but that is Palomas climbing.
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Sep 4, 2009 rating: 5.11d
Agree with DisturbingthePeace... the top crux felt difficult for the grade to me (w/out the crack). Though it seemed even harder to me when I first tried it 5 years ago compared to today, so I don't think anything was recently broken.
The good side of the 'crack-is-off eliminate' contrivance is this makes it a good climb to push your limit on, since you can use the crack if you get shut down.
RSS Feed
