Dark Dreams 

FA:  Lance Hadfield, Joey Tefertiller Type:  Sport Consensus:  5.12b [details] Length:  40 feet Views: 91 page views Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on May 14, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

This route is defined by powerful big moves on better than they look holds.

Start out on some high pockets and make some powerful moves over the starting bulge. Continue up with hard moves (might want to consider stick clipping the second bolt if 12b isn't easy for you, I did) past the second bolt. Find some holds past the next bulge clip the third bolt and get a nice rest. Shakeout and continue up on easy ground using some face holds and jams, and make one more heads up move to the anchors.

Location 

In the middle of the Franks wall, kinda difficult to find. "Between Entertaining Mike Tyson 13b" and a project. An easy way to find it is to find the horizontal growing pine the trail goes over, "Crash Test Dummies 11d" is directly above this, 2 routes to the right is Dark Dreams. Or just look for the attractive pink streaks as mentioned in the Bernard Moret guide, with some imagination they can be found.

Protection 

5 Bolts to anchors, Stick Clip is nice for the start.